![]() Now reconnect everything, be careful with the wires for the speakers / mute cable they can become loose at this point. I have it left on, but its personal preference. Test to see which you have and then if you need to, swap the wires leading to the fuse blocks of the car kit to reverse the situation. Now, the car kit will either turn off straight away when the ignition is turned off, or will stay on until it is disconnected from the phone. Splice the blue wire into one and then the red wire into the other. The power wires for the hands free kit are the last two pins (15, 16) in the top right block (Block A). There is a nut at the back of the head unit compartment which holds the earth for the stereo – you can undo this a small amount and then insert the black earth wire for the headunit behind it, then tighten it, ensuring the wire does not become loose and is held tight. In the end I used a bit of superglue to get the cables to stay-put! Again, no good way to secure the pins, so electrical tape should hold it in. The top, right hand pin (pin 6) in this same connecting block should be taken (it was on mine), so pick the next vacant pin (pin 5 counting from the left (you insert a speaker cable in to pin 1 and 7)), into this one you will insert the yellow mute cable from the car kit. It does not matter which way you insert the black and the red wires speakers work on alternating current, so there is no positive or negative in that sense. There is no good way of getting these cables to stay put, I made sure they were inserted properly and then use electrical tape to secure them to the other wires in this plug – so far it has done the trick, if yours come loose, superglue may do the job :). Cut the speaker cable from the car kit and trim to get access to the black and red wire. Looking at the back of the connector you released, the left side (this is the side with the plastic retaining edge projecting out the side) is where you will insert the bare ended cables for the speaker (pins 1,7). You may need a small screwdriver to insert into the side of the main block to do this. Release the bottom left, black rectangular connector from the main connecting block (block B – see diagram, below) that is horizontally aligned with the white block (not the two blocks above this). ![]() You may want to undo some of the tape that secures the wiring together behind the connector – we’ll tidy this up before it all goes back. Unplug the aerial, then the main connector block – this has a retaining arm that needs to be released using the catch at the bottom of the block, then raised 45 degrees Only then can you remove the block. Here is a video that shows you how to remove the headunit Connect the wires: ![]() Insert the keys firmly, they should click and then gently pull out together – one corner of mine took a bit of jiggling with the key but when all corners are free, the head unit should come out very easily if you are pulling a lot then you may not have released one of the corners properly. They keys only go in one way – with the flat sides of the handle on the outside, facing away from each other. There are 4 slots for the keys, which are (roughly) in each corner of the head unit, and are horizontal. The 4 head unit removal keys (from ebay).A car kit (Bluetooth or wired) – one with an external speaker or an audio out will do.A car (Mondeo, Focus, Fiesta…) with a 6000CD head unit that has a ‘Phone’ button.On second thoughts, why install a bluetooth car kit when you can choose to look like a knob, like this guy? You will need:
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